A day with the Berbers

We wanted to have an authentic Moroccan experience, so we decided to take a trip to spend a day with the Berbers, the indigenous people of Morocco. As chance would have it, our trip was on a Tuesday, which turned out to be a stroke of luck – we caught a glimpse of a real Berber market. Our charming guide, Yasemin, led us to the most hidden corners and tried to give us the best possible insight into the traditional Berber culture and their way of life and customs. We will tell you exactly what we experienced below.

We started the day before sunrise (at 8:30am), when Marrakech was still asleep and the streets were wrapped in a calmness you rarely experience in a city. After about 30 minutes of driving outside the city, we arrived at a Berber tent set up on the side of the road, where camels were waiting for us.

We sat in a circle on low stools. The sun was rising and warmed us pleasantly. We were served the ceremonial Moroccan mint tea, although there is no such thing as ‘Moroccan tea’ as a special drink. But the Moroccans have woven a rich story around it, which has become part of their tradition.

In the past, women were often confined to the home and were not allowed to speak in the presence of men. It was therefore the pouring of tea that became a means of communicating respect. The higher the tea was poured, the more respect it showed for men, while lower pouring indicated dissatisfaction or unwillingness to socialise.

In addition to symbolism, this practice also has practical significance. In desert areas, where the wind often carries sand, pouring tea from a height creates bubbles that prevent the sand from floating in the tea. This interplay of tradition and practicality is further proof of how strongly life in Morocco is linked to nature and cultural heritage.

The next stop was camel riding. Dresses and head scarves were available for an even more authentic experience. We skipped the short camel ride for personal reasons. The rest of our group clearly enjoyed the rocking, judging by the smiles.

The Berber Market is held only twice a week. It’s not just a market, but an opportunity for families from the surrounding villages to get together and see each other. They exchange produce without using money. It is also an opportunity to visit healers, as most Berbers do not use conventional medical services.

The market is full of life, colours and smells and is divided into different sections where you can find fruit, vegetables, spices, meat, fish, electronics and even second-hand clothes. One of the special features of the market are the “restaurants”, where individuals bring their own produce and they prepare and cook a dish to their liking. In the back, there are hairdressers, healers, chiropractors and even dentists.

For me, this was the highlight of the day, as I have never experienced anything like this before. If you are going to wander around in these parts, I advise you to stop and buy some fruit. The dates, for example, were excellent.

The location of the market is PARKING SOUK DU MARDI.

On the way to the Berber house, we stopped at some beautiful viewpoints overlooking the village of Asni, which was one of the most popular destinations for yoga retreats and cooking workshops before the 2023 earthquake. Along the way, we saw many buildings still collapsed and locals who have still not fully recovered from the tragedy.

The Berber house is traditionally built with natural materials such as mud, straw, eucalyptus and other woods… The simple structure with small windows keeps the interior cool, which is particularly pleasant in the summer months. We were served Moroccan mint tea and homemade bread with three different spreads: olive oil, honey and a kind of peanut spread which they call “Nutela”.

We then saw the process of making argan oil, which is still made by women in the traditional way – hand-pressing. We tried different cosmetic products made from argan oil and learnt about the press used in the past for olive oil. At the end, our hosts invited us to sing and dance with them, which was a wonderful end to our visit.

And another lucky thing, they were celebrating New Year’s Eve on Tuesday January 14th, which was another tick we hadn’t planned.

To top it all off, we enjoyed lunch on the terrace of our guide’s “grandmother” in Imlil. Whether she was truly her grandmother is anyone’s guess—if so, this grandmother must have a whole team of tour-guide grandchildren! But honestly, we didn’t care. Savoring traditional tagine and couscous while taking in breathtaking mountain views? It doesn’t get much better than that. Absolutely delicious!

This region is a haven for mountaineering enthusiasts, as evidenced by the many well-equipped climbers we encountered along the way. We chose a simpler, circular route with mostly flat terrain, which led us to the picturesque Imlil waterfall. The river accompanied us throughout the walk, adding a soothing soundtrack that made the journey even more enjoyable. The views of the towering mountains were simply breathtaking, with the sunlight creating stunning contrasts between the illuminated peaks and the deep, shadowy gorge below.

When we reached the waterfall, we were met with a cool, damp atmosphere. But that didn’t dampen our spirits—we snapped a few photos, enjoyed a refreshing coffee and freshly squeezed orange juice, and then began our leisurely journey back home.

During the two-hour drive back, I found myself reflecting on the Berber way of life. They embody simplicity and authenticity, finding joy in small moments, the gifts of nature, and a deep sense of community. Despite the challenges of harsh living conditions, made even more difficult by the devastating earthquake, they persevere with unwavering warmth and hospitality. This experience was a powerful reminder of how fortunate and comfortable our lives are, and how vital it is to appreciate everything we have.

My thoughts were soon interrupted as we returned to the bustling streets of Marrakech. Navigating through the narrow lanes with our van, we were surrounded by the blaring horns of impatient drivers, each searching for a quick way forward. The city immediately pulled me back into its rhythm, where nervous energy and chaos seem to define daily life.