Albania is an undiscovered pearl of the Balkans, with its picturesque coastline on the Adriatic and Ionian seas, rich cultural heritage, picturesque landscapes and hospitable people. From majestic mountain peaks to beautiful coastal towns and beaches, ancient ruins and lively town squares, I think there is something for everyone in Albania. Read how we got to know Albania.
From a landfill to a luxury hotel for lunch
We started our journey with a morning flight from Treviso, a bit at an inhumane hour, I might say, but you have to grit your teeth when you want to travel. We landed in Tirana, the capital, around 11 a.m., where we picked up the rental car we’d already booked and hit the road straight away. The staff greeted us with warmth and enthusiasm, and after a few friendly tips about staying in Albania, they gave us one key instruction: start the journey by turning left and avoid following the navigation. We nodded, eager to follow their advice, but by the time we reached the first roundabout, we were already drawn to a spot where we could stop for lunch. Of course, Google Maps had a different plan for us, guiding us straight ahead, so despite the advice, we broke the rental staff’s rule and went right. Hungry bellies and force majeure at play.
A few potholes rattled us and as we turned right, we found ourselves driving through a rubbish dump. Not exactly the introduction we were expecting, but hey, it’s all part of the adventure, right?
Well, we can’t say for sure it was a rubbish dump, but it certainly wasn’t a well-kept construction site that should have been driven on. But, of course, we went ahead and drove through it anyway. :-)
At first, there’s a moment of panic – what if we puncture a tire? But soon, the rush of adrenaline, the thrill of adventure, and endless laughter take over. After about 500 meters, we spot our destination. Well, to be precise, the restaurant next door: Bones Steakhouse Tirana. The menu wasn’t exactly what you’d call traditional Albanian fare, but for our first lunch, it was a fantastic choice.
Meet the Albanian roads, or in other words, prepare for organised chaos
Our final destination for the first day was Vlore, but before heading there, we decided to adjust our itinerary and squeeze in a visit to Bunk’Art, which had originally been planned for the last day. It turned out to be a great decision, as visiting Bunk’Art gave us a deeper understanding of Albania’s history, making it easier to connect with the country’s pulse later on in the trip. For those of you interested in what you can see at Bunk’Art, I’ve shared more details in this blog post here.
Now, I had read a lot about Albania’s roads and seen quite a few comments warning about their poor condition and how unreliable Google Maps can be. We quickly confirmed this for ourselves within the first minute of our journey. As a result, we decided to stop blindly following the map and focus on a mix of maps and good old-fashioned common sense. But did it work? Honestly, I’m not sure if it was the timing, the day of the week, a local holiday, or something else, but the road we chose to reach Bunk’Art turned out to be quite the adventure.
Roundabouts, where the ‘right of way’ rule applies. On the road, there are cyclists, mopeds, carriages, people pushing large piles of hay, rubbish and I honestly do not know what else.
At times, it really felt like we were driving through another construction site, and in fact, we were, as that section of the road was being renovated. Traffic lights for roadworks? Well, let’s just say those are a bit of a foreign concept here – you simply drive as you can. Was it a culture shock? Not exactly, but it definitely felt like a different world compared to what we’re used to. We kept the mood light, laughing all the way. To give you a better sense of this part of the journey, here’s a video of the experience. :-)
@iskrivi.kilometri Albanija
♬ Instrumental from North Albania [Orkestrale] - Folk instrumental - Albanian Popular Music Ensemble of Tirana
A hotel for 70 € …
Even before the trip, when I was planning the itinerary and choosing the hotels, I felt like we were playing a game of trying to spend as many days as possible in Albania while spending as little as possible, yet still getting the most out of it. I truly believe that what we experienced wouldn’t have been possible during the high summer season, but during the low season, we managed to make it all work beautifully.
For our first night, we wanted a hotel with a pool and sauna. After some searching, we booked the Regina City Hotel & Spa in the seaside town of Vlore. Our choice turned out to be a hidden gem. The family room was perfect—featuring a double bed and two twin beds, which we pushed together to make another double. The spa was an absolute treat, and we had it all to ourselves. It had everything—salt room, Finnish and Turkish saunas, jacuzzi… Pure bliss!
The hotel breakfast was divine, and we couldn’t help but indulge. Afterward, we enjoyed coffee on the terrace by the pool, with a stunning sea view. It was pure kitsch luxury—something we didn’t expect to find in Albania, especially not for just 70€ for four adults. Yes, you read that correctly! As we soaked in the jacuzzi, the conversation naturally turned to the idea of returning for another extended weekend, just for the amazing wellness deal. What a find!
… or apartment for 23€
For the next few nights, the boys had their sights set on experiencing as much of old traditional Albanian life as possible—ideally staying somewhere near shepherds and sheep. Meanwhile, the girls on the team had a different wish: a clean bathroom and a comfortable bed. In the end, we all compromised and hunted for something affordable but still comfortable. We found an apartment in Sarande for just €23 a night—a large family house with multiple apartments. The place was impeccably clean and tidy, both inside and out, and the owners were incredibly welcoming and warm.
Now, how was the apartment itself? The kitchen was visually stunning, equipped with everything you’d need to cook up a feast. But once we opened the cupboard, it became a bit of a challenge to close it neatly again. The dining room and living room were spacious, with a sofa bed and a lovely terrace that had a sea view. The bathroom was clean and roomy, although there was a bit of Albanian charm in the form of a non-functioning, worn-out boiler. Still, the water was hot, so we couldn’t complain too much.
And the view? Well, let’s just say it was pretty spectacular. I think the boys definitely got their wish in the end.
Never ending roads…
Before we hit the road in our rented car, we made sure to check all the basics. We had heard from other travellers that the cars weren’t always the best maintained, and we really didn’t want to end up stranded with an engine running without oil! We were embarking on a 4-day road trip, covering nearly 800 km, which doesn’t sound like much at first. But in reality, we spent more than 4 hours in the car every day. The distances between the cities are pretty long, and while the main roads are generally good, there are some stretches where you need to be cautious and adjust your speed.
At times, the kilometres seemed to stretch on forever, and minutes felt like endless hours. We drove through rolling hills and deep valleys—sometimes it felt like we were climbing a high pass, only to find ourselves by the seaside just a few kilometres later. Each turn offered a new panoramic view of the coast, towering mountain peaks, or a glimpse of Albania’s rich historical heritage. We quickly realised that in Albania, every kilometre is full of surprises, new experiences, and exciting moments. Every drive felt like its own adventure.
If nothing else, we kept ourselves entertained by looking for and counting bunkers along the road, which definitely made the time in the car pass by a little quicker!
I’d be lying if I said I didn’t find the driving tiring. Add to that our brilliant choice of FIAT Panda (which didn’t even had head rests at the back) and the journey became even more exhausting. The car was small for four people, not the most comfortable, and definitely not suited for such long drives. But despite all that, the adventure was a success, and I’d totally do it again. If I could give one piece of advice, though, it would be this: if you’re traveling with more than two people, definitely rent a better car to make the journey a bit more comfortable. And if you have a few extra days of holiday, take full advantage and explore even more of Albania – there’s so much to see, and you’ll be glad you did!
Friendly people and excellent cuisine
Now that I’m writing this, I realize this blog might come across as a bit cheesy with all the praise, but honestly, I can’t help it. We had such an amazing experience with the hospitality and kindness of the people we met on this trip. From the moment we arrived to the moment we left, we were greeted with warm smiles and open arms. Everyone went out of their way to make us feel comfortable as guests, and that’s something that really stuck with me.
Even when we ran into a bit of trouble and received a parking fine, the owner of our apartment was more than happy to pay it for us using his app. We would’ve been stuck trying to sort it out over the weekend, but he took care of everything, which really saved us.
As for the food… Well, I don’t even need to say much. Albanian cuisine was a total highlight, filled with delicious surprises. It’s a beautiful blend of Turkish, Greek, Italian, and Balkan influences. Whether it was the juicy lamb steak, fresh seafood, or vegetable dishes, we ate like kings. And the best part? It was all so affordable. I’ll admit, I didn’t take as many photos as I should have – the hunger was always way too real to bother snapping pictures of the food.
In conclusion, Albania is truly a hidden gem just waiting to be discovered. I never imagined that this country could be so diverse and offer so much – from its stunning landscapes and rich history to the warmth and hospitality of its people. While I can only imagine how vibrant it must be in the summer months, being someone who loves peace and quiet, this time of year was absolutely perfect for me. I’m so glad we took the time to explore, and I can’t recommend it enough to anyone looking for an off-the-beaten-path destination with so much to offer.
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